Redding Reverse Mortgage Facts-
Myths and Facts About Reverse Mortgages
- by Dan Conley
Determining the truth about reverse mortgages is not easy. You need to be educated on the program so that you can make the best decision for your personal situation.
Basically, if you get a reverse mortgage you will be getting a loan that will allow you to have a monthly income coming in, or a large lump sum at once, or a credit line. You can get any combination of these things as well. If you have an existing loan, it will be paid off. So you will not have a house payment. The monthly income you receive from the reverse mortgage is guaranteed and you will receive it as long as you remain living in the home. Regardless of the length of your life, your debt can never be more than the worth of your home.
I have presented the 5 most commonly repeated facts and myths below to help you further understand the benefits and ease reverse mortgages will bring.
MYTH 1: The reverse mortgage lender owns your home.
FACT: In fact, you will continue to be the home’s owner and to hold its deed. There aren’t any penalties when selling, paying off, or refinancing your home.
MYTH 2: Qualification is difficult.
FACT: You only need to be 62 years of age an own your own home. You don’t need a lot of credit or a qualifying income for this.
MYTH 3: The fees associated with closing are much higher than they are for other loans.
FACT: Actually, the closing costs are very much the same as any other home loan and you will be aware of the fees prior to closing when you receive a Good-Faith Estimate. You can also choose to finance with your reverse mortgage loan. The only other cost involved may be for an appraisal in advance of closing. Often, this is the only fee you will have to pay before closing.
MYTH 4: This will affect your taxes and social security in a negative way.
FACT: The earnings you obtain from your reverse mortgage will not become an issue with Social Security benefits or income tax.
MYTH 5: There can be problems with the payment.
FACT: You will ONLY be required to pay the loan if you decide to leave the house or if it is sold. If your spouse dies then you will still be able to remain living in the house and vice versa and also the living spouse will continue to receive the exact payment amount each month. If you have any heirs, they will be presented with the opportunity to off the loan with any other assets or they can opt to refinance so that all the remaining equity will become theirs.
Gather all of the specs, when desiring a reverse mortgage loan. Keep in mind that there are other types of mortgage loan solutions and the right choice only depends on your own unique situation. Carl can help you decide which loan is right for you.
Dan Conley, Owner of US Lending specializes in helping to show his clients their hidden retirement account. You can confidentially contact him at 530-244-6830 or at Dan@USLendingCompany.com
Terms and Fees Charged at Closing
Special Report Exposes All Of The Terms And Fees That Are Charged To Buyers At Settlement
All lenders and brokers are required to provide you with a Good Faith Estimate detailing the services you may be required to get and pay for in connection with your loan.
This Good Faith Estimate will give you a way to compare loans and see what your closing costs would be. Below you will find a list of coded names that describe the different fees, which may be associated with the services previously mentioned. These codes and names correspond to those found on the HUD-1 Settlement Statement.
Broker Fees
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700 – Sales/Broker’s Commission:
If you use a real estate agent or broker to buy a house, the seller (not you) of the house will usually pay a fee to the real estate agent/broker. This commission is usually a percentage of the sales price.
Lender Fees
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801 – Loan Origination Fee
A fee to cover the lenders costs for obtaining financing and administrative costs, most often expressed as a percentage of the loan amount (1% = 1 point). Can be a flat fee and/or paid by sellers and third parties.
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802 – Loan Discount Fee Discount Points
Often called “points”, is a one-time charge to you from lender to lower the interest rate on your loan. Generally, the more points you pay, the lower your rate. Each point is 1% of the loan amount. For example, if you have a loan amount of $100,000, one point would cost you $1000. Sometimes you will see offers with negative points. Negative points refer to money paid to you that can be used to offset your other closing costs. You will usually see a higher interest rate with negative points.
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803 – Appraisal Fee
The appraisal fee covers the cost of evaluating your home to estimate the fair market value. The appraised value of your home is used to calculate LTV. See LTV for more information.
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804 – Credit Report Fee
This fee covers the cost of obtaining a credit report, which shows how you have handled other credit transactions. The lender uses this report in conjunction with information you submitted with your Q-form regarding your income, outstanding bills, and income to determine whether you are an acceptable credit risk, how much the lender can loan you and at what interest rate.
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805 – Lender Inspection Fee
This covers inspections by the lender or outside inspector of your house/property. Most often associated with new construction.
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806 – Mortgage Insurance Application Fee
You may be charged this fee to process an application for Mortgage Insurance (MI) if needed.
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807 – Assumption Fee
The assumption fee is a charge to you, if you take over the existing mortgage on the house you are purchasing. For example, if you are buying an existing house from someone you may have the option to take over the mortgage that the seller is paying.
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808 – Mortgage Broker Fee
If you use a broker to get a loan, any fees charged by the broker are listed here.
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809 – Underwriting Fee
A cost to cover the final analysis and approval of the mortgage; often the lender’s cost to the investor who will subsequently purchase the loan.
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810 – Tax Service Fee
A fee paid to set up a service which identifies the payment due date of local taxes for the servicer of the loan.
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813 – Processing Fee
A fee charged by the lender to cover costs associated with the processing and closing of a mortgage loan.
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814 – Application Fee
A fee to reimburse the lender for internal costs associated with initiating the application process.
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822 – Flood Certification Fee
Since your house is collateral for your loan, the lender wants to be sure the property is not in a flood zone. This fee covers obtaining a report from the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) that indicates whether or not your property is in a flood zone. If your home is located in a flood zone, you will need to get flood insurance. Most homeowner insurance policies do not cover flood damage. This only covers the report and not the insurance if needed.
Lender Pre-paid Items
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901 – Interest
Lenders require you to pay the interest due on your mortgage from the close date to the first day of the following month. The interest due is calculated using the loan’s interest rate, the loan amount and the number of days until your first payment. For example, if you close on the 11th of March, you will pay 21 days interest (3/11-3/31) assuming your first payment is May 1st. Mortgage interest is always collected in arrears therefore you will pay the April interest in the May payment using the example above.
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902 – Mortgage Insurance
Premium Lenders usually require Private mortgage insurance (PMI) when your LTV (loan amount divided by property value) is greater than 80%. The insurance protects the lender in case of loan default.
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903 – Hazard Insurance Premium
Since the property is collateral for the loan, you will be required to insure your house. At closing, you must pay the first year’s premium or prove that you already have coverage (if refinancing). If you are purchasing a condominium, your association policy will already cover your unit and you will not need to make this payment. Homeowner’s insurance covers you against damage from fire, wind, and other natural hazards. Flood damage is usually not covered by a Homeowner’s Insurance Policy. -
904 - Flood Insurance Premium
If your property is located in a flood zone and since the property is collateral for the loan, you will be required to have flood insurance on your house. At closing, you must pay the first year’s premium or prove that you already have coverage (if refinancing). If you are purchasing a condominium, your association policy will already cover your unit and you will not need to make this payment. Flood damage is usually not covered by a Homeowner’s Insurance Policy. Homeowner’s insurance covers you against damage from fire, wind, and other natural hazards and must be purchased separately. (See above)
Escrow Account Deposits
An escrow account is an account used when the lender will be paying your homeowners insurance and property taxes on your behalf. You prepay the amounts and the lender pays the costs as they come due. You will probably have to pay an initial amount to start the reserve account.
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1001 – Hazard Insurance
This fee represents the amount the lender withholds to ensure you pay your homeowner’s insurance on time. Typically, the lender will require you to pay two to four months of premiums at closing, and then the remaining payments are included in your monthly payments.
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1002 – Mortgage Insurance
If you need private mortgage insurance (PMI), you may be required to prepay those premiums. Remember to reference canceling mortgage insurance to see when you can stop paying it.
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1003 – City Property Tax
If your property is in a jurisdiction where city taxes apply, you will be required to pay a portion of the taxes at closing.
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1004 – County Property Tax
The amount of property tax you owe can vary dramatically by county and the date you purchase your home.
Title Charges
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1101 – Settlement or Closing Fee
This fee pays for the services of the escrow holder or settlement service that handles all the financial transfers and payments associated with the closing process. The title company sets these fees.
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1102-1104 – Title Fee
Title fees may include title search, title examination and title insurance.
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1105 – Document Abstract Preparation Fee
Lenders or title companies may charge a fee to cover the costs of preparing the final legal documents required for closing.
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1106 – Notary Fee
This fee covers the cost of a person licensed as a notary public to swear to the fact that the individuals named in the documents are the actual persons that signed them.
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1107 – Attorney Fee
You may be charged a fee to pay for legal services of a settlement service provider at closing. The lawyer will usually oversee the signing of the documents.
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1108 – Title Insurance
The total cost of your and lender’s title insurance.
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1109 – Title Insurance Lender’s Coverage
Protects the lender against loss due to problems or defects in connection with the title. The face amount of coverage is usually written for the amount of the mortgage loan and covers losses due to defects for problems not identified by title search and examination.
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1110 – Owner’s Title Insurance
This fee covers the part of the title insurance policy that protects the owner against loss due to disputes over ownership of the property. The owner’s policy is not necessary for a refinance transaction as the existing policy remains in full force and effect, if obtained when you purchased your house, for as long as the owner owns the property.
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1112 – Carrier Fee
A fee paid to an overnight delivery service for delivery of mortgage documentation.
Government Fees
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1201 – Recording Fee
After you close, your mortgage is recorded at the county office to make record of your mortgage.
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1202 – City/County Tax/ Stamps
You may be charged tax on your mortgage by the state the property resides in.
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1203 – State Tax/ Stamps (Doc Stamps)
You may also be charged tax on your mortgage by the state the property resides in.
Additional Settlement Charges
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1301 – Survey Fee
Your lender may require a surveyor to conduct a survey of your property. A survey determines the exact location of the home and the lot line, as well as, easements and rights of way. This also protects you to ensure you have record of your property boundaries and size.
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1302 – Pest Inspection Fee
This fee covers the cost of inspections for termites and other pest infestation.
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1303 -1305 – Lead-Based Paint Inspection Fee
Houses built prior to 1978 may be required to have an inspection for lead-based paint hazards.
I hope you have enjoyed this special report. We currently have over 40 creative loan programs to fit your needs. Please contact us at 530-244-6830 to set up your FREE No-Obligation consultation where we will meet to tailor a program to fit your needs and comfort levels for monthly payment and investment.
For more redding on mortgages in Redding Visit–> Mortgage Redding
3 Tips To Repair Your Credit For a Redding Mortgage
Three Quick Tips For
Repairing Your Credit Report
By Dan Conley
Most of the major purchases we make through out our life will be affected by our credit scores, which will determine the prices we pay. Saving money and contributing to a comfortable retirement may be as easy as managing your credit wisely. Saving $33,000 on the average mortgage may be as simple as improving your credit score by 50 points. It’s also likely that you’ll find yourself paying higher rates for car loans and other types of credit so you could be looking at a rather large amount of money. Wouldn’t it be amazing if you could put all of that money in a retirement fund?
The difficulty in fixing your credit depends on how low your credit rating has fallen. I suggest that you look into hiring a legitimate credit repair company if you are unable to spend the time or you can’t deal with collection agents yourself.
Credit Report Quick
1) Designate your preference to not receive any credit bureau solicitations. Your information is sold to solicitors by credit bureaus without your permission.
The companies that buy your information are trying to get you to have even more credit card debt and are the ones that are sending you all those “fake” checks that are designed to trick you into thinking you are already “pre-approved”, or that somehow you are getting free money.
A little known fact is, the credit bureaus have to stop selling your private information if you tell them to. In fact, the credit bureaus automatic scoring system sees this as a responsible thing for you to do and actually raises your credit score when you contact them to tell them to stop selling your information. This raise you credit score 3-10 points in just a week by simply exercising your right to “opt out” of this practice.
The website to do this is located at: www.optoutprescreen.com
2) It is important that you review the information on your credit report on a regular basis, which requires that you get a copy of the report. The credit bureau report will be your blueprint if you are serious about cleaning up your credit.
It will cost you around $40 to receive a credit report that has all 3 bureaus and scores. There are a lot of companies that claim to give free credit reports, but only if you join their credit monitoring services that will cost you about $40.
Once you receive your credit report, you need to confirm that ALL of the debts reported by collection agencies belong to you. Since the credit bureaus must remove these by law, look for debts that are older than 7 years old, starting from the charge-off date. You need to dispute the debts with the credit bureau directly, not the collectors. The next thing that you need to do is check for duplicate collections, as many times when an agency sells your debt to another company they fail to remove their original report. To request removal of a debt from your report, you need to send a letter to the credit bureaus explaining why you are disputing the item.
3) Dispute ALL credit bureau debt – Dispute all negative remarks, late payments, and collections that appear, not with the collection agencies but with the 3 credit bureaus. You should clearly state that the debt is not yours, and request that the reporting agency prove that it is yours, or else remove it. This is no different than walking into a court of law and pleading “Not Guilty”. You have the absolute right to do this.
Remember when I suggest disputing all items, I mean every negative item whether real or not. An agency must let you know about the debt owed in a reasonable amount or time or they must remove the remark on your bureau in accordance with the law. The requests of the credit bureau are often not responded to because of the heavy work load of many collection agencies. If this is the case, the credit bureaus are required to remove the negative remarks whether they are legitimate or not.
Dan Conley, Owner of US Lending, is a nationally recognized expert specializing in helping release his clients from the “credit prison” that too many people find themselves in. When you or one of your friends finds yourself needing real answers and real solutions to credit issues, you can confidentially contact him at 530-244-6830 or at Dan@USLendingCompany.com
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How to Stop Renting in Redding
How To Finally Stop Renting And Own A Home Of Your Own
This free report will show you the tax benefits of owning your own home as well as:
- How to get pre-approved and find the right program to suit your needs.
- The end of this report will show you how to avoid the mistakes other people make when shopping for a mortgage.
How to Own a Home for Less Than your Current Rent
You may often hear people say buying a home will help you pay less taxes. First we must look at your comfort levels for a monthly payment.
How much of a mortgage payment can you comfortably handle?
A simple way to determine how much of a mortgage payment you can afford is to draft a simple monthly budget.
1. List your monthly income from all sources. That total is your “gross” monthly income.
2. Subtract from your gross income any taxes you pay or owe monthly – Federal taxes, state taxes, FICA (social security taxes), and Medicare taxes. Don’t forget to include the monthly amount of any estimated taxes you have to pay. What is left is your “net” income.
3. Next list your other monthly expenses, such as savings, utilities, groceries, insurance, car payments, tuition, clothing, entertainment, etc. (If some are payable yearly or quarterly, divide the amounts by 12 or 4 and add that to the monthly expenses.) Do not include current rent or housing payments, since those would no longer be applicable.
4. Subtract the total of your monthly expenses from your net income. The resulting amount is what is left for a house payment.
Of course, you can always adjust your discretionary spending to leave more for a house payment. Just be sure to be realistic if you do that. An unrealistic budget can leave you in a financial bind when reality sets in. (Can you really get by with only $200 a month to feed your family of four? Probably not! Make sure your numbers make sense for your family.)
Below you will find a sample budget. You can use it as a guide, but be sure to add any expenses that you have that don’t show up on our budget.
Sample Budget (Monthly)
Gross Income
Jon’s salary $3,000
Sally’s salary $1,900
Sally’s tutoring income (avg. monthly ) $275
Child support $300
Total $5,475
Taxes
Federal tax $1,550
State tax $550
FICA $150
Medicare $80
Estimated ($300 quarterly ) $100
Total $3,045
Net Income (Gross Income minus taxes)
Expenses
“Rainy day ” or college savings $100
Retirement savings (IRA, 401k) $150
Utilities (gas, heat, phone) $175
Groceries, meals out $400
Life insurance $95
Health insurance $300
Other insurance $60
Tuition, school loans $80
Car loan(s) $500
Automobile expenses (gas, oil, etc.) $80
Entertainment (movies, cable, etc.) $50
Credit card payments $225
Medical, Dental $25
Miscellaneous $70
Total $2,310
Available for mortgage payment $735
For More Financial Scenarios, make sure you visit
our Mortgage Calculators Page.
How can you afford a Larger Mortgage Payment?
Cindy and Roger (not their real names; the names and some of the details have been changed to protect privacy) came to me after talking to the loan officer that Roger’s brother recommended. They had found a house they wanted to buy, but the loan officer told them that they didn’t bring the right information with them – and, at any rate, it looked as if they were going to be a couple of hundred dollars short each month unless they had another $15,000 in down payment money. Discouraged, they decided to ask one more person, and ended up calling my office. I told them what information to bring in, and after meeting with them, I was able to help them get a conventional, fixed-rate mortgage that they could afford – and without a bigger down payment!
The monthly payment depends primarily on the amount of the loan, the interest rate, and the term of the loan (and sometimes taxes and insurance). A 6% 30-year fixed-rate mortgage for $142,500 would cost the buyer approximately $931, including taxes and insurance.
What can you do, then, if you really want that $150,000 house, have only $7,500 for a down-payment, and are already getting the most favorable rate and term – but you have only $735 a month available to pay a mortgage. How can you make a mortgage payment of $931? An answer for many people is, believe it or not, “withheld income taxes”!
Have you ever seen people in April, May or June walking around with silly smiles on their faces? These people probably just got a refund check from the Internal Revenue Service (IRS). Why are these people smiling? If they thought about what those refund checks mean, they’d probably be frowning.
Contrary to popular thought, a tax refund is not forced savings. Would you walk into your bank and open a savings account paying 0% interest? When you get a refund from the IRS, you are receiving your own money back with 0% interest! What you have actually done is given the US government an interest free loan!
On top of that, if there is economic inflation, then the money refunded to you is actually worth even less than it was when you earned it. To make matters worse, when you itemize, the amount you receive as a refund from your state (if your state has income tax) must be declared on your federal return. If your refund is large enough, it might also force you into a higher tax bracket. The final problem is that you don’t have the use of your money until you receive your refund.
The solution?
Change your W-4 form and receive your money (your “refund”) every month instead of giving it to the IRS to use at your expense for the year. This is a particularly good idea if you will be taking out a mortgage to buy a home. Because property taxes and the interest on most home mortgages are tax-deductible, you’ll owe less taxes than you would if you were renting. You can change your W-4 form to reflect the lesser amount of taxes due. (Your tax preparation professional can help you figure how much to withhold.) Then, each month, instead of giving the IRS your money to “hold” for you (without interest), you can use that money to pay a larger mortgage payment. Remember: It is your money and you are going to get it back regardless. The question is, do you want to get it back monthly to help you with your mortgage payment or at the end of the year.
For example, suppose your tax refund for the year – taking into account mortgage interest and other deductions – would be $2,400. That’s equivalent to $200 a month ($2,400 divided by 12 months). Instead of giving that money to the IRS and then getting it back at the end of the year, you can change your W-4 so that you get to keep that $200 a month and use it to help make a larger mortgage payment. In our previous example, that $931 mortgage payment becomes affordable when your extra $200 is added to your budgeted $735!
There is nothing “iffy” or “tricky” about this. W-4 forms are intended to help your employer withhold the correct amount of taxes – not an amount more than you are going to owe. IRS Publication 919 (Rev. December 2000), entitled, “How Do I Adjust My Tax Withholding,” states on page 2,
“You should try to have your withholding match your actual tax liability. If too little tax is withheld, you will owe tax at the end of the year and may have to pay interest and a penalty. If too much tax is withheld, you will lose the use of that money until you get your refund. You may want to check your withholding when there are changes in your life or financial situation that affect your tax liability.”
“Purchase of a new home” is listed as one of the lifestyle changes that are likely to affect your tax liability.
SO WHAT DO I DO NEXT?
You many have heard the term pre-approved or pre-qualified. In the real-estate industry we do things a little backwards. Here is a very common scenario.
You the buyer decided you want to move. You call a realtor and start looking for a home. Finally, you find the home of your dreams and your offer is accepted by the seller. Of course you will want to do a home inspection to make sure there is nothing wrong with your new home. The cost of a home inspection is generally $200-$300 and is paid at the time the inspection is done.
Next, you will need to go to a lender and get a mortgage. At the mortgage application you will need to pay approximately $469 for an appraisal and credit report. After 3 or 4 weeks you will learn if your loan has been approved.
If your loan was rejected you have now LOST almost $1,000.00 because the fees you paid are not refundable if your loan is rejected.
BUT THERE IS A SOLUTION:
You can get pre-approved BEFORE you even go looking for a home. By being pre-approved you will know that your loan is already waiting for you and all you have to do is find your perfect home. You will also know how much you need to buy the home and what your monthly payment will be.
Your next step is to call: 530-244-6830 to schedule a FREE 1 HOUR CONSULTATION and get the process started.
During this meeting we will discuss the mortgage programs that will best meet your needs. We will also try to make this program fit your needs and comfort level for a monthly payment and the amount you want to use to purchase your new home.
Also during this meeting we will run a full credit report. This is an extremely important part of the process. You may have heard horror stories about people who bought a home, applied for a mortgage and were told by their lender everything looked good. Three weeks later, their loan was denied because some bad credit showed up, that WAS NOT on the credit report during the first meeting.
WHY WE WON’T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU
There are 3 major credit reporting agencies in the United States: Equifax, TRW & CBI. When a lender runs a free preliminary credit report for you they will run 1 of the 3 agencies listed above. The problem is that not every creditor will report to the same credit agency. For example, your VISA card may report to CBI; your store charge card may report to Equifax; and your Credit Union may report to TRW. During our meeting, we will want to run a FULL 3 agency credit report. This will allow you to know exactly what will be on your credit record.
This is the same report that could be used when you purchase your home, so you many not need to pay for it again.
Call Now to Schedule 1 Hour Free Consultation
Dan Conley
530-244-6830
Secrets You Need To Know When Shopping
The right knowledge is essential! Here are some new things to think about:
1. Pre-approved mortgages
Did you know that you could be approved for a mortgage, and not just be prequalified for a loan?
Most banks and mortgage companies do not offer you this option. They have you pay the entire application fee up front.
With the pre-approval, your credit and income are checked out ahead of time and your financial information is sent to the underwriter who will be approving your mortgage.
You will then know -
How much you can spend for a home
How much money you will need to close
If you need to consolidate your debts
If your credit is good enough
The best mortgage for you and your family
Should you buy or build a home
How much money you are actually saving by owning instead of renting
What I am talking about here is a real, honest to goodness mortgage approval. Not one of those “approval cards” that when you read the fine print, you find out that you are not really approved. Without pre-approval, you can buy your home, and not worry about financing.
2. Beware of banks and mortgage companies that do not offer you their “best deal” first.
The conversation would go something like this…You: What are you rates and points? Bank: They are “such and such.”
You: Great, thanks. I am checking around with some other banks and mortgage companies.
Bank: Well, after you check around, give me a call back because maybe we can meet or beat the deal they give you.
This kind of makes you wonder that if you didn’t mention you were shopping around, that you may have ended up paying a higher rate, or more closing costs.
Wouldn’t it make you suspicious as to why that bank did not give you their best deal first?
3. Consider using a Buyer’s Agent
Most real estate agents represent the seller, they do not represent you as a home buyer.
There is a fairly new type of real estate agent called a “Buyer’s Agent.” They work for you, not the seller.
You do not pay their commission.
The buyer broker can disclose things to you about the seller (or the home) that they would not be able to if they represented the seller.
If a real estate agent will not offer you a buyer brokerage agreement, ask “Why Not”… or better yet, find another agent!
4. Utilize a Lender With Established Ties to an Agent
Lenders are much more flexible with the real estate agents who have done business with them previously. This relationship then establishes them as a team. The lender and agent work effectively together, referring each other business. That’s why a good agent can make substantial difference in setting up the most economical financing. And the right financing can, literally, save you tens of thousands of dollars over the life of your loan!
5. Don’t Attempt Paperwork Alone
All the paperwork required to complete the purchase of a home can be quite intimidating and frustrating for a home buyer. Make sure you have your lenders help you with all the paperwork. Get help from your team, your lender and agent. Their expertise will help alleviate the stress and it will prove to be invaluable before you sign your mortgage.
6. Don’t Wait for the Bottom of the Market
The odds of you hitting the bottom of your market are about the odds of you hitting your state lotto! You will almost never hit the bottom of a market. And trying to time it exactly right is often costly. It usually causes a person or family to miss out on the opportunity to purchase a very nice property. You’re better off simply negotiating the best rate and terms you can at the time you find a property. If interest rates go down, you can refinance. This is a much better approach because you won’t miss out on the property you’ve spent so much time locating.
7. Be Honest With your Lender
Your lender wants to help you with your loan. The only time they get paid is when you get approved. The more information (good or bad) you provide your lender, the easier it will be for them to get an approval. It helps them present the loan in the best light. This in turn helps the loan get the highest approval rating.
8. Become Completely Educated
Pick your lender’s brain. Lenders will teach you all about your various options, even if you haven’t found the right property yet. They will be very patient with you while you are looking, especially if you have aligned yourself with the right agent. They understand all the up-front work will pay off in future business. Your agent will then continue to refer people to the courteous and service-minded lender down the line.
I hope you have enjoyed this special report. We currently have over 40 creative loan programs to fit your needs. Please contact us at 530-244-6830 to set up your FREE No-Obligation consultation where we will meet to tailor a program to fit your needs and comfort levels for monthly payment and investment.
Sincerely,
Dan Conley
US Lending
2150 Churn Creek Rd #100
Redding, CA
Phone: 530-244-6830
Click here for more information -> Redding Mortgage